Sunday, January 30, 2011

Blue Skies

After two straight weeks of gray clouds, the sun finally came out in today. I was beginning to worry I'd never see light again! Everyday I have a moment when I can't believe I'm actually living in Paris until May. Sometimes that moment comes walking in Ladurée or while riding the metro, but today it came crouched in my tiny Euro shower. What I love most so far is not knowing what to expect the next day. I learn and see something new every single day. I love walking everywhere and constantly finding new shops and restaurants to visit. So far I've been to roughly 6 percent of the restaurants in Hungry for Paris by Alexander Lobrano and haven't had a bad meal yet. I took a friend to the Breizh Cafe in Marais after I went the first time and she loved the nutella banana crepe. They have an extensive cider list, so we tried some. It was interesting...not like cider I've had at home. By mid pitcher we started thinking it may have been alcoholic. Who knows. 


Saturday, the whole group went on a bus trip to visit Versailles. I've seen the Hall of Mirrors in so many people's Paris photo albums, so it was great to see it in person. It was all pretty incredible. However, the château doesn't have much furniture because it was sold during the French Revolution and most of what it does have are replicas. My camera died two pictures in, but I'll go back. I'd like to go in the spring to see more of the gardens when the weather is nicer anyways. A group of us went dinner afterwards and I had my first bowl of French Onion Soup here. I asked my host mother if we could make some this week and she found a recipe with lots of Gruyere cheese for the top. She told me we'll cry a lot in the process. 


Living with a family has been such a wonderful experience. The other night my family had a going away party for their daughter with all of her friends. Her 72 year old godmother came too. She was the life of the party, in my eyes anyways. She arrived monochromatic. Purple sweater, purple leggings, and purple suede boots. She held her dog Lilo in a pink carryall bag. We were all enjoying wine and snacks upstairs before the meal. All of the sudden I look down and Lilo was licking foie gras from a leopard print dog plate. The godmother said, "Oh Lilo loves liver." But wait, it gets better. After dinner she started smoking pot at the table in front of everyone. I kid you not. The mother warned me this would happen ahead of time, but I was still shocked. Apparently she had a calm night too. At any rate she was a riot. Aside from the godmother, some members of my French family remind me of Cancelmo's at home. Prosper = Peter. He is sturdy with a certain swagger and when he walks into the kitchen he doesn't talk to anyone. He just eats. Bernard = Duke. He does floor exercises at the house in the morning, reads the paper, and likes cheese. 


All of my classes start this week. Tomorrow I have two art history classes back to back. Tuesdays and Thursdays I have French and Marketing. My French is barely coming along and I keep wanting to say words in Spanish like, lo siento and donde. Nearly all of the people I've met here know at least a little bit of English, so I must get going with French!


Ceiling in the chapel at Versailles


Saturday, January 29, 2011

Friday, January 28, 2011

ZE KITCHEN GALERIE

Excellent lunch today with my fellow Texan friend Emily. Off to Versailles for the afternoon tomorrow.
Farcis de Saint Jacques, Crab & Crevette
Condiment Mangue-Citronelle
(Stuffed Scallops with Crab & Shrimp)
Agneau de lait confit - grille, gnocchi aux herbes, mostrada
(Lamb & Gnocchi)
Cappuccino Gianduja, Emulsion Cacahuette & Noisette, Glace Coco
(Delish)

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Sunday Funday in France

Today I enjoyed a late lunch with my host family and some of their extended family. I was so excited to use a new vocab word, enchantee (pleased to meet you). We ate chicken (poulet), rice, and green beans. Then swiss cheese, bread, and a raspberry crumble for dessert. We also had white and red with lunch. They have a wine cellar in the basement, but only open bottles when they have company. I would like to continue the long family Sunday lunch tradition at home.

Exterior of the Museum
After lunch I went back to the Marais area to go to the hunting and nature museum called the Musée de la chasse et de la NatureIt's definitely not something I'd typically be interested in, but it was really neat. The museum is in a nice building and houses tapestries, sculptures, paintings, furniture, stuffed animals, and guns. I especially like some of the light fixtures. 
Chair with a thistle on the seat 

Light fixture

Here's to you Dad & Peter

Just by chance, I stumbled upon a Louis Vuitton exhibit at the Musée Carnavalet afterwards. It was so cool. All I want now is a Louis trunk. There was one trunk from 1905 that has a pull out cot! Another one had individual compartments for 30 pairs of ladies shoes. 






Dog of the day

Friday, January 21, 2011

Who said Parisiens are rude?

Today as a class we explored Le Marais quarter in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements. The area has some of the oldest architecture in Paris. Now there are many small boutiques and restaurants. It also has a large Jewish community. We ate lunch on a street where there were several great Jewish bakeries. On my own I found a designer consignment shop called Yukiko on rue Vieille du Temple. It must have had a dozen vintage Chanel bags and accessories. I was holding my camera when I walked in and the store keeper insisted I take pictures. Then he wanted to be in a picture himself. It was hilarious! He knew a bit of English and was so amused when I said I am from Texas.



Wednesday, January 19, 2011

A French Dinner

Tonight my host family invited three couples over for an intimate dinner party. I was happy to be included even though I couldn't communicate with anyone. I just observed and listened. We all began the night upstairs with wine, sausage, and sliced fresh horseradish Nancy called "organic sausage." There were two small dishes, one with a spice mix and the other black sesame seeds mixed with salt to dip the horseradish. As the guests arrived I managed to say bonsoir and introduce myself. I wasn't ready for the double kiss greeting from the women. 


After everyone conversed for awhile we all went downstairs to the kitchen. The kitchen is pretty big. There is a long dining table along and a concrete "island" (as I would call it in America) with bar stools. Lucy, Prosper, his friend, and I formed the kids table on the stools. Nancy dressed the main table beautifully with a white table cloth, silver trays, and candelabras. We began with foie gras, bread, and Sauternes (a sweet white wine). I learned that the French always put the bread on the table, not on plates even if there is not a tablecloth. Then we had pork with a tomato, onion sauce and potatoes au gratin. Following the main course we had cheese and more bread. This is something I am still getting used to. I knew before I came that cheese after the meal is very typical, but I didn't think families would really eat it everyday after dinner. I especially like how it's served on a round wooden block. 


For dessert we had a lemon cheesecake with a gingersnap crust. One of the guests said, "Kate would you like a piece of cake?" At least that is what I made out. All of a sudden the entire table burst out in hysteric laughter and started jabbering in French. I just smiled and carried on. I felt like I was in a nail salon at home where the ladies talk about you, but you can't understand what they are saying.

Luckily, Lucy talked to me in English some and we talked about her upcoming trip to New York. She she made a comment about needing to exercise when she gets to America because of all of the food and alcohol she'll consume. I found this so surprising that she would feel that way about the US when that is exactly how I feel about being in France.

The more wine everyone drank, the louder it got. It was a very lively, boisterous group. I love being a part of it. Tomorrow afternoon intensive French lessons begin. I am in Group A for extreme beginners. I desperately need to learn some new words and phrases to bring to the table.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

rue Cler open market

I explored today after orientation and did a ton of walking in the 16th and 7th arrondissements. The markets on the pedestrian street Cler were fun to walk through because I saw lots of local Parisiens buying their food. 

Some pictures from day 2: 

Monday, January 17, 2011

Bienvenue à rue Froidevaux

I've finally made it to Paris! For the next four months I'll be living with a host family in the 14th arrondissement studying Art History, French, and Marketing. Luckily, my family speaks English or I'd be playing charades trying to communicate. The mother Nancy was born in the states, but split her  childhood between London, Rome, Brussels, and eventually moved to Paris at age 16. Her French  photographer husband Bernard works in a studio that shares the same courtyard as the house. I met him briefly. He looked at my luggage and asked if I was planning on staying a year. I just smiled.

Below are some pictures of the interior. It's very eclectic and artsy with cement floors and winding staircases. I will be sharing the third floor with one of my two pseudo brothers Prosper and Victor. The family's 23 year old daughter Lucy is leaving for a graphic design internship in New York.

Since I'm living with a family they will provide several meals during the week. Today for lunch we had assorted cheeses and cassoulet. I wish I knew a little French for mealtime conversation. I have a feeling they don't want to speak English all of the time. However, I was thrilled when Nancy said they love downloading American television shows online. Mad Men is the current household favorite. After lunch Nancy showed me the neighborhood fromagerie, chocolate shop, and dry cleaners. Then I explored a little bit on my own and found the apartments where some of the other students are living. I also got a metro card. Tomorrow is orientation and then we begin two weeks of intensive language classes. Till then.

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Christmas Dinner Cheesecake


My Dad took me to New York City for the first time for my birthday in the 8th grade. We ate at Serendipity 3 for lunch one of the days, but didn't order dessert! I bought their cookbook Sweet Serendipity: Delightful Desserts and Devilish Dish after our visit. This cheesecake comes from the book, but I altered the recipe a bit using a graham cracker crust instead of a walnut one. It turned out well and everyone loved it.