Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Figueres

Restaurant at Hotel Emborda, Figueres
Chef & Owner Jaume Subirós

Lunch in Figueres was probably one of the best tasting and most memorable meals of my trip. My Spain travel book only listed one restaurant in Figueres, so I headed straight to it after visiting the Dali Museum. I had the address assuming it would be right in the center of the small town. I was wrong. I ended up walking what seemed like a mile down the side of a highway searching for a hotel sign or some indication of a restaurant nearby. I was thrilled when I finally passed one reading Emborda .5 km straight ahead. The hotel's exterior right off the main road was nothing exciting, but then views behind were incredible. The dining room had windows floor to ceiling in the back and a terrace on the side for large groups. I hadn't planned on such a heavy lunch, but the menu offered a set three course option so I went for it. Before my first course they served me a tasting of creamy artichoke soup. I started with a salad with strawberries, apple, and black truffles. I had steak with onion confit as my main, then tarte tatin with granny smith apple sorbet. 
After my meal, the chef came out and introduced himself and asked me questions including, "Are you a journalist?" I guess they wondered why I was taking pictures and such. I made the mistake of saying I speak both a little Spanish and French. He took that for more than it was worth. Unfortunately for me I didn't understand a word when he spoke to me in a combination of both languages with Catalan thrown in too. He took me up a few stories in the hotel and showed me the balcony in one of the rooms. The panoramic view was stunning. 
Other restaurants I recommend in Barcelona:
1. Tapioles 53 - small 6 table dining room, excellent food and service
2. Comerç 24 - trendy tapas, El Born
3. Enoteca - total splurge, Hotel Arts
4. Organic - healthy and inexpensive, near la Rambla

"Take a holiday in Spain..."


I'm looking out my bedroom window over the Montparnasse cemetery at the rainy, grey sky listening to the Counting Crows and the sound of cabs zipping down my street. People walk briskly wearing dark colors, blank faces look down at the pavement. It's so Paris. 

This week marked my first trip from one European country to another. The flight was very short - only an hour and a half. When I arrived at BCN and walked outside I felt like I was going to break into a sweat wearing my black, quilted coat. It was then I knew I'd love Spain. Noticing cultural differences between France and Spain was interesting. Barcelona was so colorful and lively compared to Paris. People were more relaxed in general. In my experience, people made eye contact and acknowledged other's presence in the street or in the metro. I could feel looks from strangers, sometimes unwanted. Frenchmen would never dare wink or whistle at women in public. Aside from tourist destinations, all of the stores shut down for day time siestas. In a week I was able to see a lot in Barcelona and the surrounding area. I went to the well-known destinations like Gaudi's Sagrada Familia, Park Güell and the mercat de la Boqueria on la Rambla. But I enjoyed the less crowded spots and neighborhoods like the small streets leading out from the  Plaça de la Virreina in Gracia. La Rambla is tourist central. The street is lined with food vendors, street artists, bad restaurants, and people taking photos of all of these uninteresting things. The Boqueria is a fun place to walk through, but the mercat Santa Caterina has all of the same goods with a fraction of the people. I loved the fresh pineapple juice. There was also a restaurant in the corner of the market called Cuines Santa-Caterina that I didn't get too, but it looked good. I will have to make a separate post about the restaurants. 
Santa Caterina Market
I found a number of nice food shops throughout Barcelona. There were also hip boutiques on tiny side streets, around the Born neighborhood, and near the Picasso Museum. These were my favorite:  
Olive, Plaça de les Olles 2
Hofman Pastry Shop, Flassaders 44
Teicawey, Gracia

I went to these museums: Museo Picasso, Fundació Joan Miró, Fundació Antoni Tàpies, Teatre-Museu Dalí. I'd say if you only go to one in Barcelona it should be the Picasso Museum. It's inside adjoining medieval palaces so it's like a maze walking through each gallery. The Dali museum was in a beautiful small town about two hours (by train) north of Barcelona called Figueres. Some of or much of Dali's work is crazy. It really makes you wonder...

Anyone will tell you that Barcelona has great nightlife and now I understand why siestas are essential to Spanish life. There are lots of clubs along the beach in Barconleta. I went to one called Shoko with people on my program in Paris and some of their friends on similar ones in Barcelona. I will leave it at that. It was fitting that I visited the Barcelona Cathedral during noon mass on Sunday. Even though there are lots of visitors walking around inside the church, mass continues as normal. Listening to the choir inside such a beautiful cathedral was neat. 
Outside, men played music and older people danced in circles. I learned afterwards they were performing a traditional Catalan folk dance called Sardana. It symbolizes unity.